Battle of the Brunches (Part 1)

This past weekend, I made it my business to brunch at two different French bistros in Brooklyn: Moutarde and Loulou. Although both have much to recommend them, Loulou (CLOSED AS OF 6/09) really claimed a corner of my heart (and more than a corner of my stomach).

At Moutarde, I appreciated the pain au chocolat and buttery croissants in the breadbasket. The orange juice is not fresh-squeezed, but the coffee is good and strong. The menu mostly consists of egg dishes such as omelettes and scrambled eggs with caramelized onions. I did enjoy my generously hollandaised salmon Eggs Benedict with mesclun greens and roasted potatoes; the English muffins were crisply toasted.

Loulou is charming, rustic, and tiny. Watching the heaping plates of pain perdu (bourbon French toast) pass by, I felt as though I was living in Babette's Feast. The menu offers more variety than that of Moutarde, and the fresh orange juice is honey-sweet. I couldn't decide between the moules frites, palette (bread, egg and vegetable pancake), or the apple cinnamon crêpe. Finally I delighted in a savory egg and cheese crêpe with green salad. However, it wasn't quite enough to sate my legendary appetite, so I gave in to the craving for a warm bread pudding. Dense and eggy, sweet with maple syrup and smothered with melted semi-sweet chocolate, it was a recipe from heaven.

Moutarde: 239 Fifth Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 623-3600. Loulou: 222 DeKalb Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 246-0633.